Place
Hotels, restaurants, bars, houses and the buildings that hold them. Every place here has been visited rather than briefed, and written up against what it claims to be rather than what it costs.
The question is always the same one: is this worth the journey, and for whom? Scores are given at the end of each piece, broken down so you can see which parts carried the result.
Published here

ROSI, Broadway
ROSI — From Horse Trailer to Broadway
Sian and Roman spent several years serving wood-fired pizza out of a converted horse trailer. In August 2025 they opened a permanent site behind the butchers in Broadway.
Edit No. 30

El Disparate, Seville
El Disparate — Andalucía, With the Windows Open
Seville is very good at preserving its food traditions. El Disparate is more interested in seeing what happens when you let them travel.
Edit No. 29

L'Aillet, La Teste-de-Buch
L'Aillet — The Bistro Worth Leaving Arcachon For
A contemporary bistro in the centre of La Teste-de-Buch, 250 wines in the cellar and a dinner menu nobody sees until it arrives.
Edit No. 27
From the archive
Earlier place pieces, from Edits 01–26. These were published on Vitae and still live there.

Pandeli
Pandeli — The Restaurant Above the Spice Bazaar
A dishwasher who started selling bean salad from a stall in 1901 ended up with a dining room built into the roof of the Spice Bazaar, granted to his family by state decree.
Edit No. 26 · on Vitae

Rüstem Pasha Mosque
Rüstem Pasha Mosque — The Mosque Above the Market
A mosque built on stilts above a working bazaar, funded by the rent from the shops beneath it, holding some of the finest tile work the Ottoman Empire ever produced.
Edit No. 26 · on Vitae

Regency Café
Regency Café — London's Great Art Deco Greasy Spoon
Open since 1946, closed for a year and a half, and back exactly as it was under new ownership.
Edit No. 25 · on Vitae

Billingsgate Market
Billingsgate Market — Winding Down by 7
25,000 tonnes of fish a year, open to the public from four in the morning, and largely finished trading by the time most of London sits down to breakfast.
Edit No. 25 · on Vitae

Richmond Park, London
Richmond Park at Dawn — In for the Deer, Out for the View
Cambrian Gate before the park properly wakes, and a walk that ends at the only view in England protected by its own Act of Parliament.
Edit No. 25 · on Vitae

Drakos Taverna, Ios
Drakos Taverna — Sixty Years on the Same Stretch of Sand
A family fish taverna at the far southern end of Mylopotas beach, run by the same family since 1962. Sixty years on one stretch of sand, and one of the better places on Ios to watch the sun go down.
Edit No. 24 · on Vitae

The White House, Kalami
Durrell's White House — The Room Where Prospero's Cell Was Written
A working taverna on the water at Kalami that happens to be the house where Lawrence Durrell lived and wrote Prospero's Cell — still run by descendants of the family who took the Durrells in ninety years ago.
Edit No. 24 · on Vitae

Tower House
Tower House — The Riverside Restaurant in the Old Clocktower
A modern Mediterranean restaurant from the team behind Notting Hill's Gold, set in Richmond's restored 19th-century riverside clocktower — with a glass garden room and a terrace on the Thames.
Edit No. 22 · on Vitae

Danieli
Danieli — London's Thickest Hot Chocolate
A long-standing family-run Italian gelateria and chocolate shop on Richmond's ancient Brewers Lane, famous for its viral spoonably-thick hot chocolate — and, quietly, for some of London's best gelato.
Edit No. 22 · on Vitae

Via Romana
Via Romana — The Sandwich Down the Ted Lasso Alley
A tiny Roman sandwich shop halfway down Richmond's "Ted Lasso alleyway," making some of the best Italian sandwiches in London — to carry to the Green or the river.
Edit No. 22 · on Vitae

Lita
Lita — The Neighbourhood Bistro That Arrived Knowing Itself
A Mediterranean sharing-plate restaurant on a quiet Marylebone street that won a Michelin star within a year of opening — built around live fire and the warmth of a grandmother's table.
Edit No. 21 · on Vitae

Roe
Roe — The Restaurant That Proved a Point
A 500-cover, hyper-sustainable modern British restaurant from the Fallow team, on Wood Wharf's waterside — the opening that signalled Canary Wharf could draw serious food.
Edit No. 20 · on Vitae

Hong Kong Country Club, Deep Water Bay
Hong Kong Country Club: The Club Built to Break Down Barriers
Conceived in 1947, opened in 1962, built specifically so that all nationalities could meet without discrimination. Members only — you'll need one to take you. The lawn still runs down to Deep Water Bay.
Edit No. 19 · on Vitae

One Duck Lane, Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour
One Duck Lane: The Restaurant That Made North Point a Destination
A Peking duck restaurant inside the Hyatt Centric that Bloomberg says rivals Hutong and Sha Tin 18. 45-day-old ducks, a custom-built oven, and a chef who trained at the Sheraton.
Edit No. 19 · on Vitae

Six Bali Sunset Addresses
The Best Sunset Spots in Bali Right Now
From Rock Bar on the Jimbaran cliff to Dugong above Labuan Sait, six addresses across the island that together map how Bali's sunset culture actually works.
Edit No. 18 · on Vitae

Six Bali Breakfast Addresses
The Best Breakfast in Bali Right Now
From Copenhagen in Canggu to Ivy Café in Ubud, six addresses across the island that together map how Bali's morning café culture actually works.
Edit No. 18 · on Vitae

Dugong, Uluwatu
Dugong, Uluwatu: The Restaurant You Have to Find
Built into the cliff above Labuan Sait beach under a bamboo roof. Open-air, Indonesian-inspired, sharing plates. The views are the reason to go. The food is the reason to stay.
Edit No. 17 · on Vitae

El Kabron, Uluwatu
El Kabron, Uluwatu: The Clifftop That Does Everything
Established on the limestone cliffs of Uluwatu since 2011. Infinity pool, Mediterranean seafood, the Sunset Theater at the cliff edge, and a daily live performance as the sun goes down. Here's how El Kabron actually works.
Edit No. 17 · on Vitae

Rock Bar, AYANA Jimbaran
Rock Bar, Jimbaran: The Bar Built Into the Cliff
Opened in 2009. Designed by Yasuhiro Koichi. Carved into limestone 14 metres above the Indian Ocean. Accessed by an inclined lift down the cliff face. Here's why Rock Bar is still the reference point.
Edit No. 17 · on Vitae

Ox, Belfast
The Michelin Star on the River Lagan: Ox, Belfast
One of just two Michelin-starred restaurants in Northern Ireland. Stephen Toman trained at Taillevent and L'Astrance. The tasting menu changes daily. The Harland & Wolff cranes are visible from the upper floor.
Edit No. 16 · on Vitae

Mijana, Amman
The Restaurant Rainbow Street Is Built Around: Mijana, Amman
A three-floor family-run restaurant in a converted 1950s Amman estate. Palestinian, Jordanian and Lebanese food at a standard that 17,000 reviews describe the same way. The essential Amman table.
Edit No. 15 · on Vitae

Berenjak, Al Maha Island, Doha
The Restaurant That Changed the Conversation About Doha: Berenjak, Al Maha Island
Michelin Bib Gourmand. 4.9 across 1,777 reviews. Persian food inspired by the ancient port city of Bandar Abbas, with views of the Lusail Marina and the Doha skyline.
Edit No. 15 · on Vitae

Seven London Pizzerias
The Best Pizza in London Right Now
From Napoli on the Road in Chiswick to Crisp in Mayfair and the Soho original PizzaExpress, seven restaurants that together map how London's pizza culture has evolved.
Edit No. 14 · on Vitae

Six London Rooftop Bars
The Best Rooftop Bars in London Right Now
From the Emory in Belgravia to Wagtail above the City, six rooftop bars that between them cover every version of a London evening above ground level.
Edit No. 14 · on Vitae

Six London Bookshops
The Best Independent Bookshops in London Right Now
From Daunt Books in Marylebone to Brick Lane Bookshop in Shoreditch, six independent bookshops that together map what an independent in London can be.
Edit No. 14 · on Vitae

Arakataka
Cooking, Without the Theatre: Arakataka
A contemporary restaurant in central Oslo, running a seasonal Nordic menu for over a decade — Arakataka has not changed its approach to suit the moment, and the moment has caught up with it.
Edit No. 13 · on Vitae

Donnington Brewery
Still Brewing: Donnington Brewery
A 13th-century water mill, a mill pond with black swans, peacocks in the yard — Donnington has been brewing here since 1865 and shows no sign of adjusting to the present.
Edit No. 12 · on Vitae

Ku De Ta, Seminyak
A Beach Club That Defined the Format: Ku De Ta
One of the original Bali beach clubs, holding a steady rhythm in a coastline now defined by scale and intensity.
Edit No. 10 · on Vitae

Corner Shop
Retail and Dining, Reframed: Corner Shop
A flexible, all-day space within a redeveloped Brutalist landmark on The Strand. Retail, dining and culture, without separation.
Edit No. 9 · on Vitae

Brighton & Newhaven Fish Sales
Where the Catch Still Lands First: Shoreham Fish Market
Fish, landed nearby and sold without distance. A working port where freshness is measured in hours, not days.
Edit No. 8 · on Vitae

East Beach Café
Architecture on the Shore: East Beach Café
A sculptural form in weathered steel on the Littlehampton shoreline — designed by Thomas Heatherwick and shaped more like land art than a restaurant.
Edit No. 8 · on Vitae

The Lawn
Afternoons in Motion: The Lawn, Canggu
Positioned on the beachfront in Canggu, The Lawn is less a destination in itself and more a point within the day.
Edit No. 7 · on Vitae

Akoko
Precision and Heat: Akoko
Akoko does not introduce West African food to London. It assumes it is already here.
Edit No. 6 · on Vitae

Luna Wine Bar
Wine Without Theatre: Luna Wine Bar
London has no shortage of wine bars. What is rarer is a room that treats wine not as spectacle but as habit. Luna Wine Bar, from the team behind nearby restaurant Legare, offers exactly that.
Edit No. 4 · on Vitae

Bilmonte
Cold Craft in Soho: Bilmonte
In Soho, noise is the default setting. Against that backdrop, Bilmonte feels almost restrained — a gelateria handcrafting Sicilian gelato daily beneath the shop floor, where texture matters more than theatre.
Edit No. 3 · on Vitae

WatchHouse
The Room That Named the Brand: WatchHouse, Bermondsey Street
Before it was a multi-site coffee company, WatchHouse was a building. The original 19th-century watch house on Bermondsey Street still anchors the brand — and earns its place through architectural integrity rather than fashion.
Edit No. 2 · on Vitae